Paris Club (River North, Chicago — 59 W. Hubbard)

Last Saturday, I was fortunate enough to be invited to a practice party* at Paris Club, the newest restaurant from the Melman Brothers (Hub 51) and Lettuce Entertain You. Officially opening today in the former Brasserie Jo spot, Paris Club is “a casual and funky French restaurant and bar serving up approachable French fare in an atmosphere that’s fun and unpretentious.” I’d have to agree.

Here’s what we enjoyed, clockwise from upper left. Everything was very good, but the starred items were our favorites.

• Paris Club menu, Goose Island Matilda
• Steak Tartare a la Jo*
• Paris Chopped Salad
• Paper Bag Snapper with Fennel and Lemon*
• Chocolate Mousse, Ingelligentsia Coffee
• Roquefort Crusted Filet Mignon with Frites*
• Braised Brussels Sprouts with Golden Raisins
• Lamb Meatballs with Harissa Tomato Sauce*

Things worth mentioning:

• The house wine is available on tap and includes a Pinot Noir (score!)
• Most menu items were reasonably priced at under $20, but there are a few “luxury” items including foie gras and lobster frites
• Portion sizes were very generous and could easily be shared by two or more people
• The atmosphere is energetic and exciting, but manages to remain relaxed and unpretentious
• The service was fantastic and the wait staff was friendly and knowledgeable
• I would love to go back and try the mussels with white wine and herbs, the short rib bourguignonne and the fennel gratin

*In exchange for the meal, my guest and I were asked to fill out feedback forms and provide constructive comments on every aspect of our meal, including service and atmosphere. We also were asked to tip our servers.